We left Port Hardy on Thursday to cross Queen Charlotte Strait and start heading up around Cape Caution. Cape Caution is aptly named because everyone we have met or talked to about our trip who knows the Inside Passage has asked how we were going to get past the open water around Cape Caution, and cautioned us about the dangerous seas in stormy weather.
We crossed Queen Charlotte Strait on Thursday and landed in Secure Bay. On Friday we paddled against a light wind to Skull Cove. And on Saturday we paddled and sailed 32 miles around Cape Caution and landed in Rivers Inlet.
The weather around the Cape was probably as good as it could be, 20 knots of wind and 3 foot swells. The shoreline is amazing! It is beat into submission by massive waves most of the year. There are incredible rock shores, with trees and vegetation blown into crazy twisted sculptures. We were told the original Egg Island lighthouse, located about six miles north of the Cape, was washed away by a wave. It sat 75 feet above sea level! It was really cool to see that part of the shoreline, and really nice to get it behind us.
The winds continued to help us out, but we got a late start on Sunday and decided to call the Addenbroke Lighthouse on the VHF to see if there was a place to camp on their grounds.
What a great idea! Dennis, the lighthouse keeper, is an amazingly generous and nice guy. He pulled our kayaks up on his dock with a crane,
gave us a room to sleep in, and has been feeding us all kinds of delicious food. His stories from 25 years as a lighthouse keeper, and raising three girls on the island, have kept us entertained while we stand out on the deck and watch an endless parade of humpback whales feeding, breaching, and slapping the water. What an amazing place to spend a day! But we are going to force ourselves to leave tomorrow morning and continue on to Bella Bella, which should only be 4 or so days away.